Description
Cigarette Fétiche {no.22}: There are many beautiful plants that are toxic… yet we humans still love them and often feel great attraction to them, even though we know they are dangerous. We find ourselves wanting to experience altered states; often through the use of substances (like perfume). For the 2022 Heirloom Elixir collection, I’ll be exploring toxins and altered states through scent & pleasure, spiritual practice, self destructive tendencies, and even the ‘magic’ of transmuting toxic substances into beneficial medicines. We start with cigarettes and the sensuality associated with smoking rituals. I found inspiration in looking at elegant cigarette holders, sexy inhalation styles, and the beauty of curling smoke rings (as well as the addictive nature of tobacco). Tobacco fragrances have been popular since smoking became a form of liberation for women in the early 20th Century. Since then, there have been myriad tobacco themed fragrances which speak to the chewy / fruity, vanillic / balsamic, and traditional booze-paired expressions of tobacco. With Cigarette Fétiche I wanted to create an ‘ashy’ take on the tobacco soliflore concept, while still emphasizing the luxe sensuality of the note. Instead of focusing on the sweet nuances alone, I wanted to bring in some references to the scent of Old Books, and a brush with undulating curls of smoke. Whether you’ve ever had a fetish for cigarettes or not, Cigarette Fétiche is a lovely and unusual take on a classic style of perfumery tradition.
The Absinthe Drinkers {no.23}: Switching gears completely, fragrance wise, from Cigarette Fétiche, for the next 2022 Heirloom Elixir release we travel (a bit) back in time and space to Paris of the late 19th Century and it’s fascination with absinthe (especially among the artists, writers, spiritualists, and counter-cultural movers and shakers of the day). For a very long time absinthe was a banned substance, as it was thought to ‘rot the brain’ and poison the imbiber; literally to become possessed by ‘the green fairy’. For the lovers of absinthe, it represented a glorious escape into the realm of the muse; a space of inspiration, beauty, and maybe even higher consciousness. It was elegant, exciting, and rather naughty.Many painters of the period created images of “Absinthe Drinkers” from Manet, to Edvard Munch, to most famously, Edgar Degas. They all appear to be in a dream-like state; some in a sort of of stupor and others rather animated. For my fragrance “The Absinthe Drinkers” I wanted to create an atmosphere: the scent of absinthe (including the slightly creamy texture when water and sugar are added to the liquor), the aromas of popular fragrances of the period (wood violet and heliotrope), as well as aspects of the clothes they wore (a bit of skin and body scent), and the wooden tables found in bars of the time. It’s a complex and beautifully vintage inspired green / sweet / aromatic fragrance with a lovely cozy (sort of fluffy) side as it dries down. Somehow “The Absinthe Drinkers” feels like an eerily perfect concept to explore as we navigate our own need for dreaming and escapism during a multi-year pandemic. I think that most of us can relate to the wish to leave and find a more beautiful space to inhabit while the outer world feels so out of control and scary. Here we find beauty and comfort as we dance with the green fairy and her altering effects. Notes: Absinthe, Aldehydes, Ambergris, Ambrette Seed, Bergamot, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Bulgarian Rose Otto, Costus, East Indian Patchouli, Fern, Galbanum, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Green, Green Cardamom, Hay Absolute, Heliotrope, Lemon, Lily, Mimosa Absolute, Muguet / Lily of the Valley, Musk, Orris Concrete, Ruh Khus, Star Anise, Sugar Cube accord, Violet, Violet Leaf Absolute, and Wood Violet.
Oleander {no. 24}: The perfect transitional perfume to take us from the heart of Spring to the blossoming of Summer. Oleander (or Nerium), is a toxic Mediterranean flowering shrub that is widely cultivated around the world for its beauty and gorgeous fragrance. Although the flowers are said to smell of apricots (and apricot is one of the notes found here), I wanted to express the beauty of the entire shrub with green leafy edges, and the warm, sultry feel of the semi-tropical atmosphere that they grow in. The result is a radiant, sunny, and lush floral with leafy green freshness and a soft creamy – woody-vanillic drydown. It’s beautiful on both men and women… an utterly intoxicating (and actually poisonous) flower. Notes: Ambergris, Ambrette Seed, Amyris, Apricot, Arabian Jasmine, Bergamot, Bitter Almond, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Fresh Lemon, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Heliotrope, Leafy Green (accord), Magnolia Flower, Mandarin, Musk, Orange Blossom, Orris Root, Pink Oleander (Accord), Sambac Jasmine, Sandalwood, Tunisian Neroli, and Ylang Ylang Nosey Be.
Starry Nightshade :: a Tomato / Potato/ Tobacco perfume {no.25}: In the garden of mysteries in the Pre-Colombian night, scores of stars illuminate the sky while leafy green tendrils of blossoming, fruiting vines embrace the earth below. This is the perfume of long ago in the Americas… and languid Summer nights, by moonlight, in the our own yard gardens: Starry Nightshade. Nightshade plants, which originated in the New World, contain toxins (as befitting this year’s theme), even poisons – as in deadly nightshade; they’ve also been the long time companions of humanity. Whether trough spiritual and ritual use (tobacco), nourishment and sustenance (potato) or expressions of sexuality and lust (tomato), nightshade plants are a part of us. Notes: Aldehydes, Atlas Cedarwood, Bergamot, Brazilian Vetiver, Centifolia Rose Absolute, East Indian Patchouli, Egyptian Neroli, Fresh Potato Accord, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Green Oakmoss, Green Tobacco Leaves, Hay Absolute, Leafy Green (accord), Orange Flower Absolute – France, Orris Root, Sambac Jasmine, Sweet Basil, Tobacco Absolute, Tobacco Flower, Tomato Leaf.
Of the Vespertine {no.26}: The early Autumn is, for me, the twilight of the year… it is that glorious transition phase that brings us into the deep darkness of winter. Like twilight, there is a subtle beauty present that speaks directly to my soul. In keeping with the inspiration of this year’s Heirloom Elixir series (“Beautiful Intoxicants”), I looked to the *Datura flower and its spiral blossoming that occurs as day transitions to nightfall. Called the Vespertine Flower, Datura not only has a narcotic aroma but can be deadly if imbibed. “Of the Vespertine” therefore dedicates its heart accord to Datura, embraced by atmospheric notes to speak to the opening night sky and the sense of late summer turning to early autumn through a wooded chypre structure in the drydown. It’s warm, sensuous, and downright romantic in the most traditional sense of the word. Notes: Ambergris, Atlas Cedarwood, Australian Sandalwood, Bergamot, Brazilian Vetiver, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Ciste Absolute, Clary Sage, Datura Flower (Accord), Elemi, Frankincense (Olibanum), Grandiflorum Jasmine, Green Oakmoss, Green Rose Leaves, Guaiacwood, Hay Absolute, Honey, Honeysuckle, Labdanum, Lavender Absolute, Leafy Green (accord), Orris Concrete, Peru Balsam, Pink Peppercorn, Sambac Jasmine, Sycamore (accord), Thorn Apple (accord), Tonka Bean Absolute, Tunisian Neroli, and Violet Leaf Absolute.
Azucar Negro {no.27}: Blackened Sugar laced with Long Island Iced Tea. Polished mahogany sitting rooms… filled with smoke while sipping on Cuba Libre. This is one sexy, intoxicating potion that could only come from below the Tropic of Cancer; in the land of sugar cane. We’re completing our “Beautiful Toxins” series with the most pervasive (and perhaps addictive) of all : Sugar. (You know it’s just downright delicious!). Notes: Amber, Ambergris, Australian Sandalwood, Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Blackened Sugar (Accord), Bourbon Vanilla, Brown Sugar (accord), Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Cade, Cognac, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Gurjun Balsam, Labdanum, Lemon, Lime Peel, Peru Balsam, Rhum accord, Siam Benzoin, Sugar Cube accord, Sweet, Tonka Bean Absolute, and Whiskey Whiff (accord).
DSHPerfumes –
(for Oleander)
Jorge5lonnie (verified owner) May 14, 2022.
This oleander perfume is identical to the flower. I’m simply amazed. WOW
DSHPerfumes –
(for Oleander)
cindy (verified owner) May 17, 2022.
Wow—this is great from the start. Soft, floral, sweet with a delicate vanilla.
DSHPerfumes –
(for Oleander)
Michael Jones (verified owner) August 31, 2022.
If I could give this fragrance 10 stars, I would. I think of Louisiana with it’s beautful green gardens and flowers. It really stirs up a lot of wonderful memories for me. I own a ridiculous number of fragrances. 120 bottles to be exact and Oleander is my favorite fragrance in my entire collection – that’s how good it smells to me.
DSHPerfumes –
(for Azucar Negro)
NRL (verified owner) December 30, 2022
I’ve been wearing a sample of this for a while now and I am OBSESSED! I’m usually not a fan of gourmands but this one is heavenly. It’s a perfect balance of booze, smoke, and sweet vanilla on my skin. Getting a bottle immediately!
Cayce Smith –
for ~Cigarette Fetiche~
Sticky tobacco, sweet ash and rich cigar smoke. I can so absolutely *feel* the textures in this one and it’s fascinating ! – the touch of cigar paper, damp tobacco, thick smoke swirling above and ash flaking away to reveal the red glow burning below – to the extent that I can’t stop sniffing my arm when I’m wearing it. This is an intoxicating treat of all sensations wrapped up in one delicious scent. Wow !
Cayce Smith –
for ~Starry Nightshade~
If scent had a color this would be medium green- fresh, slightly tart, lightly fuzzy vegetable leaf. I don’t detect grassy or woody green – it is true to the leaf green with a citrus touch that just complements without making this a citrus fragrance… incredibly refreshing without being either sweet or overly dry. I love this for when I want something natural and fresh – it really is the smell of rich, fragrant garden leaves in the summer that has such a true quality it keeps drawing you back in for a sniff !
MThompson –
In the shop, I mentioned to Dawn and Sarah that I was looking for something evocative of the black sugar that was ubiquitous in the cafes of Seoul, South Korea on a recent trip. This is what they suggested, and it fit the bill, right down to the name! Sweet, but with an edge. Deep, dark molasses with a hint of smoke. A very slight hint of a heady flower and rum in the background. I love this. I’ve paired it with Cafe Noir for a real show-stopping scent.
Marlen Harrison –
~Oleander~
Wow! There is something incredibly photorealistic about this fragrance and the way it manages to evoke the perfumed petals of a Mediterranean blossoming shrub. Even more excitingly, I immediately had thoughts of the original Ungaro and Joop! Femme from the early 90s. My only complaint about Oleander is that I want more, more, more! I think I need to try this in the extrait concentration as it goes quiet on my skin rather quickly in the VdP. But there is something about this I find incredibly intoxicating, a perfect composition.
Marlen Harrison –
~Starry Nightshade~
I read the description and thought potato and tomato? However, on the skin, the bitter green grassy facets of tomato leaf pair beautifully with the green-floral jasmine and bergamot nuances that fill out the composition. But it’s not all fresh leafy greens; edges of spice and dirt (patchouli?) ground these vines. Think Chanel‘s Bel Respiro meets Sisley’s Eau de Campagne!
carter –
For Azucar Negro—
Wanted to love this and sadly all I can smell is bitter maple syrup. The syrup smell gets stronger and stickier the more I wear it. I don’t regret giving it a try, though.
3755922721 (verified owner) –
For The Absinthe Drinkers ~
Dawn stressed that this bottle of perfume was never intended to restore absinthe, but to describe the people who sipped absinthe at the end of the 19th century. Vermouth has inspired many artists. This perfume was also created in a special period. She hopes that through this fragrance, people can be guided by the Green Fairy to come to the world of absinthe and have a rest.
At the beginning, there is a strong fragrance of star anise and anise, accompanied by sharp galbanum and mineral like ambergris, which together depict a bitter green absinthe. But the scent of emerald quickly passed on the skin, fading behind the scenes in just about 10 minutes, and almost disappearing in about 20 minutes. At this moment, the round sweetness of licorice emerged, leading to a large bouquet of composite flowers, like a soft yellow cloud with an oil painting like texture: the sweet and soft jasmine and lilies became the main body, and heliotrope and violets also occupied a considerable position, providing a retro powdery feeling, combined with mimosa to form a thin layer of honey flavor; The addition of sugar cube accord provides a white and comfortable sweetness, without any greasiness.muguet and mung bean nutmeg, with their fresh greenery and a hint of moisture, gently dissolve the dull floral fragrance. Rose essential oil, with its geranium like green aroma, almost blends seamlessly with the absinthe base below. At this stage, I felt as if I had entered Degas’ L’Absinthe, as if sitting next to the exhausted lady, and could still smell a drop of absinthe on her fingers, as well as the aged fragrance of ostrich feathers on her hat.
Finally, various dark green fragrances appeared, fennel returned to the stage, and the sugar cube were still prominent, but the ambrettolide and iris root made them angular, quiet, and round. Musk and sunflower was so fluffy, adding the last touch of texture to this cloud.
To me, this bottle of perfume is like a melancholy and decadent cloud, full of bitterness and dreams, floating quietly, as if it is about to drop emerald tears.